The following excerpt was taken from KKVʻs archive and recounts a history of Kalihi that only a few can recall. In our reprinting, we present this story to you in two parts. The second part will appear in Septemberʻs issue of the newsletter. Some portions of this content have been edited for continuity.

On March 13, 1982, after years of being separated, we of Kalihi Mauka, the “Kam IV Road Gang,” were finally reunited at a most memorable, emotion filled evening. About thirty years before, we were evicted from Kam IV Road by the State so that it could build the Kalihi Valley Homes, a low-income housing project. For many of us who spent nearly all our lives in Kalihi Valley, the eviction was indeed a bitter experience. From the early 1920s, the valley had been home for our families. To all of us, including those who migrated into the valley at later years, the valley had become our “furusato,” our “Kokyo” our land of birth.  Many of us had hoped to live our entire life in “our” valley. But only the few whose property was not taken to build the Kalihi Valley Homes were allowed to remain. Still, even though most of us no longer live there, our hearts remain in Kalihi Valley. 

This account of Kalihi Valley is written to capture the events that made our neighborhood a close-knit, friendly “Kam IV Place.” It is written according to periods that best delineate the years: the beginning in the early 1920s, passage through the 1930s, then the eventful 1940s and finally the 1950s. 

Kalihi Valley 1920

Kalihi Valley was a close-knit community partly because it was isolated geographically by its natural boundaries. Kalihi Stream flowed on one side and mountains protected the valley in the back.  Only one road, Kam IV Road, ran through the community.  People frequently met each other as they traveled up and down the road.  Thus, the people of Kalihi Valley, then known as “the Kalihi Mauka people,” got to know every family in the neighborhood and everyone in the family. The feeling of community was further fostered by the chihojinkai (association of people of an area) that the issei (first generation) formed. Through the chihojinkai many customs of old Japan were carried on, such as New Year’s parties (shinnenkai), year-end parties, and even neighborhood picnics. 

In the 1920s Kam IV Road was a narrow dirt road with no streetlights. It was lined with tall trees with over-hanging branches, giving the area a look of wilderness. At this time Kam IV Road included the section of the road that is mauka of the present School Street; in the 1920s there was no School or Middle Street. 

Taro Patches

The area just below Kaewai School was called “Make Kanaka.” Starting there and stretching almost all the way to Kalihi Union Church, acres of taro patches were planted. To irrigate the taro patches, a ditch diverting water from Kalihi Stream was dug. The ditch began from deep within the valley (Wailele) and extended for more than two miles. This system of irrigation was laboriously dug by pick and shovel, a remarkable task well done! 

The people who had farms mauka of the taro patches drew water from the ditch to wash their pigpens. Each farm contributed several dollars per month to hire a person to clean this ditch and see that the water kept flowing and also to prevent anyone from diking the ditch. 

Life Style

Life in the 1920s lacked the modern conveniences of today. In those days almost every home had an out-house rather than an in-house toilet. The furo was the only bath and wash unit. Washing machines and refrigerators were unheard of. There were ice boxes, but these were wooden cabinets in which a block of ice was placed to keep food cool. Amazingly mothers were able to raise large families, keep house, and still help on the farm. 

Life for mothers was hard.  Most mothers did not go to the hospital for childbirth. Instead they used the services of a midwife. Perhaps the mothers preferred not to be examined by a male doctor and were more comfortable with a midwife. In any case, most, if not all, simply could not afford to go to a hospital. 

Schooling

All the youngsters attended Fern School, which was nearly a mile away. Some students had their classes at the Kalihi Japanese School because Fern did not have enough classrooms to accommodate the rapid growth in the number of students from Kam IV Road. Several students attended both Fern-Kalihi Japanese School and Kali Waena School to complete their elementary education. 

Kalihi Valley 1930 

In the early 1930s the only intermediate school in West Oahu was Kalakaua. It served students from Ewa, Waipahu, Pearl City, Aiea, and those in Honolulu living west of Liliha Street.  During the rainy months students got dripping wet from walking from Kam IV Road to Kalakaua School, which must have been a two-mile trek. Students from the “country” formed carpools to attend school. Those who could not afford transportation could not continue their schooling so many did not go beyond the required eighth grade. Kalakaua was believed to be the biggest wooden structure west of the Rocky Mountains. Unfortunately, the old building was destroyed by a ravaging fire several years ago. 

From Kalakaua, students went to McKinley High School, the only public high school in the early 1930s. In order to be accepted at McKinley, students had to attain a certain level of academic achievement.  (Even at the elementary school level, students were not promoted automatically.) 

To go to McKinley, a student had to walk all the way from the valley to King Street and then catch the trolley.  Because getting to school took more than an hour, the students had to get up early to make it to school on time. 

The Great Depression

Very few of the “first wave” of nisei attended high school. Many stayed home to work on the farm or to work outside. At this time the nation was in the throes of the Great Depression. Since the crash of the stock market in 1929, hard times and economic suffering were everywhere. 

However, the people of the valley were better able to survive because food from the farm was available. Pork, chicken, vegetables, banana, and other food items came directly from the land. Because of this relative abundance, thieves came into the valley to steal chickens and pigs. 

As a measure of protection, the community association distributed whistles to each family. In case of theft, a whistle was blown to alert the entire neighborhood to help trap the thieves. It was a very effective method and eventually the thefts subsided. Most probably the thieves were people who suffered because of the economic depression and stole the chickens and pigs to sustain themselves. Normally, thefts and burglaries were so rare in Kalihi Valley that homes were never locked. If anyone went to town he left the doors unlocked and never worried. 

Despite the continuation of the Depression, there was an increase in the number of high school students from among the “second wave” of nisei. Nearly all attended McKinley, then known as “Tokyo High” because the majority of the students were of Japanese ancestry. Later, in 1937, Farrington High School opened to receive the “third wave” of nisei from the valley. However, several were fortunate enough to attend private high schools. 

To supplement family income, many students went to work at the pineapple cannery during the summer. The wage was 18c an hour which is very low by present standards, but during the Depression everyone scrambled for a summer job. Those who were employed were extremely grateful for whatever job they could get. 

Even the very young felt the hardships of the Depression.  They learned to be thrifty and to do without a lot of things. 

Japanese School

During the decades of the 1920s and 1930s, nearly every boy and girl of Japanese ancestry attended Japanese Language school after English school was over. Classes were held every weekday afternoon and Saturday morning. Shushin (etiquette) was stressed. Respect for parents, elders, superiors, and those in authority was emphasized. Many parents who immigrated to the islands intended to return to Japan someday so they wanted their children to be able to speak Japanese and be well trained in traditional Japanese manners and customs. Most parents felt it was shameful if their children did not attend Japanese school. (In the early 1920s most Japanese children possessed dual citizenship. Although they were citizens of the United States because they were born here, they could also become Japanese citizens if their parents registered them with the Japanese consulate. After 1924 a law was enacted abolishing such a status.) 

The Kalihi Mauka students were not the most conscientious students at Japanese school. Most attended language classes just to please their parents. Too often other interests interfered with their progress in Japanese school. In the early 1930s, the intermediate schools had a football league which was very competitive and considered “Big League.” The problem was that all the games were played on weekday afternoons.  The “sweathogs” (truants) from Kalihi Mauka were at the games having a wonderful time instead of attending Japanese school.  

Since absenteeism was a serious problem, the school principal conducted an investigation and uncovered the reason for the heavy absenteeism. The next day he had all those who had been absent the day line up against the wall. Without a word of warning, he gave each one a sharp slap on the head and yelled, “Takai gessha o haratte nanika antatachi wa footoboro ni iku.” Roughly translated it means, “Your parents are paying high tuition to the Japanese school and here you are playing truant to go to football games.” 

After repeated truancy by the Kalihi Mauka students, the principal decided to go to Kalihi Mauka and report directly to the parents to discuss their children’s poor academic records. Unfortunately for the principal, the boys expected him and were prepared for his arrival. They hid in the trees along the roadside and threw rocks, pebbles, and plums at him, not to hit him but just to deter him. Since the growth on each side of the road was so thick, the principal could not identify the culprits. Before the principal left the valley, the rascals also flattened his tires. The principal was furious and wanted to punish the wrongdoers but could not because he did not know who they were. In his opinion, the Kalihi Mauka boys were “furyo,” no-good delinquents. 

There were students from other areas who attended school regularly and were diligent in their studies. Most of the parents of these students served on the school board; they looked forward to graduation day when their children would be called and be recognized as honor students of their respective classes. These students were constantly pressured by their parents. In contrast, the Kalihi Mauka parents lacked the time to be so involved with their children’s education. They had large families, often with eight to ten children, and a farm to manage. Because farming was an all-day, seven-days-a-week enterprise, the children were somewhat neglected. With eight to ten children and no modern appliances to help them with their housework, it was hardly possible for parents to spend much time with each of their children. (Family planning information was lacking so nature took its course, resulting in large families.) 

A select few going to McKinley went to Fort Street Hongwanji Japanese School.  Attending Hongwanji was expensive. In addition to tuition, there was the cost of transportation. Also, Hongwanji students were required to wear coat and tie. Because it was too troublesome to carry the coat and tie all day long, the students wore them to English school as well.  In a way wearing the coat and tie to Hongwanji was like following the Japanese customs of wearing school uniforms. Uniforms helped create an atmosphere that encouraged students and instilled in them the value of abiding rules and regulations. 

Better Times

When the “second wave” of nisei graduated from McKinley in the early 1930s, hardly anyone went to college. Ironically, most stayed home to help on the farm because it was profitable. With the added help, their families could increase the stock, which generated a larger income. The financial depression which had lingered for some time was gradually being alleviated; times were getting better. Hogs which used to sell for less than $20 per head were now selling for close to $40. Several boys were able to obtain employment outside the farm so spending money was available. 

Evening Activities

The evenings were usually spent at Kam IV bridge talking stories or “shooting crap.” In those days there were only a few night activities to engage in, especially if you lived deep in the valley. Hardly any family had a radio because most could not afford one. Many of the conveniences which we accept without appreciation today were not then available. Television, stereo and transistors were not yet invented. Only the phonograph was. When it rained in the evening, all the boys took shelter in “the barn,” a small shack which had been used to shelter a horse.  Since the horse’s death, the boys took refuge in it from the constant valley drizzle. 

In spite of the rain, mosquitoes, lack of streetlights, and “fragrant smell” (odor from the pig farms), there was always a gang out on the bridge every night. Many exciting escapades took place which would be best omitted from this history.